This is a warm climate but I have learned to bring a jacket to every screening. The sound thunders from the speakers, and blasts of Arctic air roar from the ventilation system. Every theater I have visited in India advertises stereo and air conditioning, and is at pains to demonstrate that it has both. Higher and higher we climb, looking ruefully at a disabled escalator, until we reach heaven-seats that cost 30 rupees, or about 75 cents. We go into a lobby that stretches in every direction as far as marble can reach. "Those names are for the director and the musical director." "The stars are so famous they don't even put their names on the posters," Uma tells me. Narsing Rao, a tall and friendly man who Uma describes as a director, painter, poet and playwright. I have learned that it means, "Yes, probably, but one never knows." She makes that distinctive Indian head movement that is not a shake nor a nod, but a sort of circular combination of both. "But.you said the theater was half an hour away, and the show starts at nine," I said. It is 8 p.m. "We will stop on the way and get a bite to eat," says an actress who is on the festival jury. That evening we are sitting in the buffet area of the Holiday Inn Krisha, making plans to attend the Bollywood production “Taal,” one of the biggest hits of recent years.
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